The Bark Stops Here
Here's where I'll post odds and ends of interest: Upcoming local events, health bulletins and announcements. Each month, an original article will be added addressing dog training and behavior. So check back often to see "The Inside Poop".
News
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Articles
Three new articles!
Kids and dogs
(Posted November 23, 2009)
I know of no more special relationship than the one between a child and her dog. When the two click, magic happens. Life's most essential lessons: compassion, generosity, responsibility, consequences, forgiveness, humor, patience, unconditional love and more can be learned through caring for a dog. So, if you're thinking abut getting a puppy for the kids, think again. Get a puppy because you want one. If it works out well for the children, color that a bonus.
More often than not, puppies drive kids crazy. And vice versa. The puppy's constant mouthing hurts, tears clothing and destroys treasured toys. Jumping is frightening and potentially dangerous. The addition of a puppy can cause a lot of strife within the family as members determine who takes responsibility for what. No matter how genuine your child's intention to care for the pup is, it has been my experience that the onus of responsibility falls on the adults. And there's the matter of sibling(ish) rivalry, especially between the youngest or only child and the pup.
To minimize future conflicts and ensure that this most special of relationships is fully realized, please make sure the family's expectations are reasonable by discussing the following guidelines before Pavlov is even brought home.
- Let sleeping dogs lie. I'm guessing that whomever coined this adage did so because a child was bitten while disturbing a sleeping puppy. Because awake puppies can be so annoying, children are often attracted to them when asleep. Managing this dynamic can be tricky in that you don't want to turn the child off while also recognizing Pavlov's rights. Try having your child color a picture for, or of, the sleeping puppy. Tell him a story or read him a book. The good news is that puppies grow up fast and they'll soon need way less sleep.
- Never crawl under a bed, table or chair after the puppy. Chances are that Pavlov's there because he is tired and wants to be alone. If the puppy has something he shouldn't have, like a sock or Lego, he may guard it and could bite the interloper he perceives to be invading his den. In the spirit of picking one's battles, with a brand new puppy where bonding and confidence building are paramount, if the object is neither dangerous to him or valuable to you - a paper towel, for example - I'd simply let Pavlov have it. If you must get the item away from him, try luring him out with a goodie and trading the contraband for the treat.
- Do not run after the puppy. While dogs adore being chased, it can actually teach them to run away from you to perpetuate the game. This can be both frustrating and dangerous. I have known of two dogs who were playfully chased right in front of moving cars. The more subtle mistake in running after Pavlov is that it conveys that he is the lead dog and the child is the underling.
- Greet the puppy calmly. Shrieking, wild gesticulations and backing up are all invitations for Pavlov to jump. Simply stepping into a pup before he becomes airborne will take up the space and preempt his jumping.
- No hugging around the neck. Most dogs hate this.
- Minimize time spent sitting on the floor. Being on the floor makes us doglike, and there is nothing dogs like more than mouthing. Standing up may be all that is needed to change this dynamic.
- No rough housing. Puppies either respond to rough housing by playing too roughly or by being scared. There are fun, safe ways to eventually teach Pavlov to play tug-of-war, but for now, let's just don't do it.
- IT IS AGAINST THE LAW TO EVER HIT, KICK OR TEASE THE PUPPY.
We all have this Normal Rockwell image of a boy and his dog. And while that type of relationship may eventually happen, it takes time. As with all friendships; this one should be fostered not forced.
Good Luck!
Look At Me
(Posted November 23, 2009)
"Look at me" is an eminently useful pre-training exercise. From the beginning, encourage the puppy to check in visually by tweaking your fingers in front of your eyes while sweetly saying his name and then "Look at me". Smile to ensure that your eyes stay soft. If added incentive is needed at first, move a choice toy or treat from the puppy's nose to your eyes to encourage him to "Look. Good dog!"
When teaching "Look at me", or anything new, it's best to do so in brief snippets here and there throughout the day. Keep it upbeat and playful. To drill will only bore you both. Demonstrate that the puppy's looking at you makes good things happen by asking him to "Look" before offering a treat or meal, throwing a ball or rubbing his belly.
Soon, "Look at me" will be a preamble to training. "Pavlov, Look at me." Now ask him to sit, heel, go lie down or do the dishes. (Not to worry, how to teach most of these commands will be discussed in future articles.) It is our ultimate goal to have the puppy automatically "Look" at you for direction without your even asking.
"Look at me" is also an effective way to preempt unwanted behaviors by getting Pavlov's attention in advance of his acting out. Being unable to multi-task, if the pup is looking at you he can't also snarl at Mr. UPS, chase a bunny or bark at a Basset hound.
"Look at me" is a relationship building exercise. Never ask the puppy to "Look" and then scowl or "stare him down" (something I never recommend, anyway). "Look at me" is a matter of trust. If you abuse it you will lose it.
Good luck!
Socialization
(Posted November 23, 2009)
Socialization means exposure to a wide array of people, animals, places, scents, sounds and experiences. By doing so early on you set the foundation for how Pavlov will feel about these things later in life. It is therefore essential that you make these experiences as positive as possible.
Expose the puppy to contexts different than the one in which he lives. Take the country canine into town. Introduce Pavlov to people of different ages, color, even someone with a limp. Beards and umbrellas. Statues. A cat, parrot or pony.
And of course expose Pavlov to other dogs. Big and little dogs. Puppies play amongst themselves differently than one might with a mature dog. Both exposures are therefore important.
Stress is part of the real world, so show Pavlov early on that he'll be left alone and he may sometimes be in a crowd. Or a party. Drop a pot on the floor. Ever so gently, step on his foot or tail - it happens. And, while you want him to feel nurtured and safe, don’t go overboard with the coddling. Forgiveness and flexibility are conditions of well-adjustment.
If you travel a lot and intend to include Pavlov, acclimate him to the road early. Conversely, if you travel and intend to leave him with a sitter or in a kennel, do so—even for one night—as soon as it’s safe, vaccine-wise.
Bumps may pop up along the way. So, for example, let’s say Pavlov is scared of the car. Slowly desensitize the puppy to each of the car’s components while counter-conditioning him that good things happen in it. First, just have the puppy sit in a stationery car with his bed, toys, choice treats and favorite book. Once he accepts this, turn on the engine but don’t actually drive anywhere. Then take a tool around the block. And, of course, the piece de resistance, a ride to the dog park. Or out for lunch.
Not to worry, for those who adopt mature dogs, socialization can be attempted at any age. The difference is that it’s more work and there’s less success. Like the child raised in a bilingual home, it’s way easier for a puppy sans baggage to learn about the world.
Good luck!
Jody Rosengarten
The Bark Stops Here
(203) 372-BARK